Doug Robinson
Acting
Biography
Doug Robinson, born in 1945 in California, is an iconic figure in American mountaineering, internationally recognized for his achievements in climbing and cross-country skiing, as well as for his writings on the intimate relationship between humans and the mountains. Nicknamed "the father of clean climbing" in Yosemite Valley, he played a central role in the clean climbing revolution, a practice that prohibits the use of pitons in order to preserve the integrity of the walls. Adopting the use of nuts—removable protective equipment brought back from England by Royal Robbins—in the late 1960s, Robinson became their most ardent advocate and contributed greatly to their technical perfection. The 1972 ascent of the Regular Route on the northwest face of Half Dome, completed alongside Galen Rowell and Dennis Hennek without pitons, heralded this new era. The feat, immortalized on the cover of National Geographic, catalyzed a radical transformation in the Californian mountaineering community, which now embraced a more respectful approach to rock climbing. Doug Robinson discovered the vertical world at an early age thanks to long summers spent in Tuolumne and Yosemite, guided by his nature-loving parents. In the 1960s and 1970s, he made a number of firsts on granite, ice, and mixed terrain in the Sierra Nevada: among other things, he achieved the first ascent of Dark Star on Temple Crag, a now legendary 30-pitch route, and the first ice ascents of V-Notch and Lee Vining Icefall with Yvon Chouinard. He participated in the second ascent of the Himalayan peak Ama Dablam alongside Jeff Lowe and others in 1979, an expedition filmed for ABC Sports. Robinson collaborated on the development of innovative equipment such as stoppers and Tube Chocks for the Chouinard Equipment company (later Black Diamond), making his mark on climbing history by improving protective gear. He founded training programs, taught at Foothill College, directed the Palisade School of Mountaineering, and chaired the first edition of the American Mountain Guides Association. An inspiring guide, he shared his mountain knowledge with the economic elite—such as William Randolph Hearst III and Apple executives—as well as apprentice guides and ordinary enthusiasts. His commitment shaped an entire generation of climbers, as well as cross-country skiers: he participated in the first continuous ski traverse of the John Muir Trail, a 400-kilometer route, in 1970, and traced numerous telemark descents in the Sierra Nevada and as far as Mount Rainier. With a bachelor's degree in English from San Francisco State University, Doug Robinson has established himself as a notable author. His book "A Night on the Ground, a Day in the Open" is hailed for its poetic prose, making him "a modern-day John Muir" according to his readers. In "The Alchemy of Action," he explores the psychological dimension of mountaineering. He speaks at conferences, produces educational videos, and is committed to promoting a responsible and humane mountain culture. Now living in Kirkwood, California, alongside his partner Eva Eilenberg, Robinson continues to explore the mountains, passing on his passion to his children and an entire community.
Known For
In the shady campgrounds of Yosemite valley, climbers carved out a counterculture lifestyle of dumpster-diving and wild parties that clashed with the conservative values of the National Park Service. And up on the walls, generation after generation has pushed the limits of climbing, vying amongst each other for supremacy on Yosemite's cliffs. "Valley Uprising" is the riveting, unforgettable tale of this bold rock climbing tradition in Yosemite National Park: half a century of struggle against the laws of gravity -- and the laws of the land.
Valley Uprising
The American Sportsman was an American television series on ABC that aired from 1965 to 1986 and pioneered the outdoor sports and recreation genre. Hosted by Joe Foss and later the famous Curt Gowdy, the show featured hunting, fishing, and other outdoor adventures every Sunday, often with celebrities from film, sports, or music. The show consisted of filmed reports where the hosts and celebrity guests participated in outdoor activities: freshwater and saltwater fishing, hunting, whitewater kayaking, hang gliding, and even rock climbing. The crew traveled across the United States, Canada, and sometimes abroad, capturing the spirit of adventure and exploration.
The American Sportsman
The documentary Jeff Lowe's Metanoia traces the life and exploits of legendary mountaineer Jeff Lowe, from his visionary climbs around the world to his battle with an incurable neurological disease. The term "metanoia" means a fundamental shift in thinking or a transformation of the heart. In 1991, Jeff Lowe opened an incredible climbing route, called "Metanoia," on the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland, a feat that profoundly changed his life. This film recounts this exceptional adventure, which also becomes a metaphor for his battle with Lou Gehrig's disease (amyotrophic lateral sclerosis), which gradually caused him to lose all his physical abilities. A spiritual epic, Jeff Lowe, confronted with his own mortality, reveals his unique philosophy and inspiring creative genius, while showing his great inner strength in the face of adversity.
Jeff Lowe's Metanoia
BRAVE NEW WILD is an offbeat chronicle of America’s Golden Age of rock climbing before and after the controversial ascent of the Dawn Wall in 1970. Some forty years later, Oakley Anderson-Moore, the daughter of a pioneering climber, stumbles upon her father's old hi8 tapes, and sets out to answer the question: why climb when there's nothing to gain -- and everything to lose? Wry humor and an eclectic original soundtrack punctuate the delinquent antics of the Vulgarians in the ‘Gunks, the larger-than-life rivalry of Yosemite’s rock gods, and the fruit tramping, freight train hopping hobodom of her dad’s climbing life. This film is quintessential viewing for those who long for adventure.
Brave New Wild
Writer and mountain guide Doug Robinson explains the sport of climbing, focusing on the climbing movement, with several leading climbers providing examples on challenging routes across the United States.