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Henri Agresti

Henri Agresti

Acting

Biography

Henri Agresti is a French mountain guide, linguist, filmmaker and teacher at ENSA. With his wife, Isabelle, professor of classics, they formed a high-level mountaineering team to conquer the peaks of the Alps but also around the world and achieved many firsts in the 1970s. They have four children including Blaise Agresti, also a mountaineer and mountain advisor to the General Directorate of the Gendarmerie. Henri Agresti and his wife Isabelle went to Afghanistan twice, in 1966 with Poles, and in 1968 (first entirely French expedition) where they spent more than two months. Two months there, but three and a half months of expedition in total since they went there in 4L, crossing Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Syria, Turkey, Bulgaria, Yugoslavia and Italy! They carried out several firsts, some of which will never be repeated and which gave rise to a film and a 41-page booklet, “Arid Mountains of Wakhan”. In the 1970s, they developed a passion for the mountains of the Hoggar massif in Algeria and opened several routes including the Agresti dihedral, a daring route from the 1970s, opened in around ten days by artificial means. The couple published numerous books and mountain guides and gave numerous conferences throughout their lives.

Known For

Sahara Vertical
10.0

Following in the footsteps of Frison Roche, 7 climbers explore the main Hoggar massifs in Algeria. Their main objective is the ascent of the Garet El Djenoun summit via the north ridge, a long climb symbolic of a certain difficulty and a significant commitment, due to its location in the desert. They also attempt the Diedre Agresti, a daring route from the 70s, opened in around ten days on artificial, and unequipped; it is a path that has never been repeated; the objective is to do it free and almost only on wedges, with difficulties up to 7b/c in a sometimes very delicate rock... Excerpts from the film shot in 1970 by Henri Agresti on this same route, allow us to compare the technical and material means of the time to those of today. They also discover the beauty of the Algerian desert, its silence, its rock paintings, the customs of the Tuaregs, etc... a fascinating journey.

Sahara Vertical

2006Movie
The Gate of Heaven
10.0

A legendary film in the history of rock climbing in the Verdon Gorges, shot in 16mm between the autumn of 1978 and the spring of 1979 by Henri Agresti, a high mountain guide. For the first time, acrobatic shots were taken on the walls of the Verdon. We rediscover a whole generation of pioneers on routes like Dingomaniaque, Triomphe d'Eros, Péril rouge, Luna Bong, Pichenibule or Necronomicon, routes which, like Dingomanique or Triomphe d'Eros, had just been opened. We witnessed a major turning point in the style and possibilities of rock climbing at the end of the 1970s: anchors sealed by drilling used as belaying and no longer as aids, new equipment: climbing shoes and chalk, harnesses and figure eights. Henri Agresti's unfinished and silent film, lasting around fifty minutes, was presented in the form of a nine-minute fragment at the Trento Film Festival in 1981.

The Gate of Heaven

1980Movie
Shakhaur 7116m, Face Nord
10.0

This film - without commentary and simply accompanied by local music - relates the 1969 ascent of the north face of Kohe Shakhawr, a Himalayan peak located on the border with Afghanistan, by mountaineers Benoît Mathieu, Jacques Soubis, René Thomas, Jean-Paul Paris, Isabelle Agresti, Henri Agresti, Roger Dietz, Jean-Pierre Frésafond, Paul Gendre, Claude Jager and Félix Magnin. As is often the case in Henri Agresti's films, there is an encounter with other peoples, other cultures, documented at length in the introduction. Then, after the interminable approach, the ascent begins: distribution of camps, successive assaults on the mountain, walking on steep scree and snowy slopes, climbing on icy walls... The arrival at the summit, without the aid of oxygen devices, seems to take place in slow motion: exhaustion mixes with the joy of the victorious mountaineers who will celebrate their success on their return to base camp on August 24, 1969.

Shakhaur 7116m, Face Nord

1969Movie