Stéphane Schaffter
Acting
Biography
Stéphane Schaffter, born in 1953 and died in 2015, is a renowned Swiss high mountain mountaineer and guide, also director and producer of films. He began climbing and mountaineering at the age of 16, notably through the climbing of the Bonatti pillar in the Drus, marking the start of a life turned towards the mountain, adventure and verticality. His journey led him from the walls of the Jura to the highest peaks in the world, notably the Himalayas, which he discovered in 1982. He participated in many expeditions to the Alps, the Andes and in Himalayas, with major exploits such as the first ascent of the western pillar of the tower without name at the Baltoro in Pakistan, or even the first man to reach 8,000 meters Shishapangma. He also climbed Everest, the K2 and produced striking ascents punctuated by various sporting and technical challenges. Stéphane Schaffter also marked the spirits by his work as a director, in particular of documentaries around his expeditions, such as "Everest 1952-2002: the completed dream", a film which relates a modern expedition commemorating that of 1952 with the descendants of the mountain pioneers Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay. His cinematographic work is recognized for its quality and authenticity, capturing the passion and the rigor of the mountain. In addition, he maintained a close relationship with the brothers Eric and Patrick Escoffier, adventure companions and close friends, with whom he shared several expeditions, notably towards high summits and in extreme conditions. These human ties were an integral part of his philosophy, because he saw in the camaraderie and the mutual aid of values reinforcing the alpine experience. His latest book, "vertical passion, from the Jura to the Himalayas", published in 2012, traces her career, his exploits, and his deep passion for the mountain, while testifying to his whole, generous and demanding character. He died accidentally on July 24, 2015 during an expedition to Zanskar in India. His life and work continue to inspire mountaineers, travelers and mountain lovers through his stories, films and his spirit of adventure.
Known For
Less than two years after his serious road accident, Eric Escoffier brought together the "Turbo" team (Frédéric Ancey, Michel Fauquet, Christine Janin and Stéphane Schaffter) with whom he will attempt to climb Everest without oxygen and without prior acclimatization in the Himalayas, the project being to complete the Paris-Everest-Paris loop in two weeks. It is also a medical experiment: the athletes spend a week at Mont Blanc, at the Vallot observatory between 4000 and 4800m, then a week in a hypobaric chamber in Grenoble. Doctors (Dr. Richalet, Herry and Bittel) perform tests throughout this training, which will learn about how the body acclimatizes to altitude and allow applications in the management of mountain-related illnesses . On September 2, 1989, they arrived at Everest base camp in China. They attempted the ascent via the North Col but could not carry out their project, prevented by bad weather.
Everest Turbo - La Tentation
No description available.
Eric Escoffier, la Fureur de Vivre
In 1983, three climbers became the first French people to reach the summit of Everest. Among them were expedition leader Pierre Mazeaud and a promising 25-year-old climber, Jean Afanassieff. Twenty years later, the two legends, accompanied by mountain guide Michel Pellé, retrace the steps of their exploit and make the trek from Kathmandu to the foot of the roof of the world. This is an opportunity to retrace the history of the successive assaults on Everest and to assess the current situation of a mountain that has become a victim of its own success: while Sherpas have been able to take advantage of Western enthusiasm and thus enrich themselves and equip the summit to make it more accessible, the site's attendance poses numerous problems, both human and ecological.
Everest At Any Cost
Meeting in Chamonix with Éric Escoffier, famous mountaineer of the 80s, victim of a car accident in September 1987. Victim of multiple fractures and total paralysis on his left side, Escoffier managed to walk again, despite the doctors' pessimistic prognoses... The commentary on images of Éric Escoffier in his daily life in Chamonix and archive images and photographs alternates with archive documents, extracts from the films "Profession grimpeur" by Philippe Lallet and "Face nord" by Jean Afanassieff as well as interviews with the protagonist, Rémi Éric Escoffier and Michel Garcia. Great among the greatest, Éric Escoffier, who disappeared in the mountains at Broad Peak on July 29, 1998, will never have been an ordinary man.