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Muhammad Ali Sadpara

Muhammad Ali Sadpara

Acting

Biography

Muhammad Ali Sadpara, born February 2, 1976, and died February 5, 2021, was a Pakistani mountaineer. He was part of the team that achieved the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. His two teammates, Alex Txikon and Simone Moro, later stated that they could not have done it without Sadpara's genius. He is the only Pakistani mountaineer to have successfully climbed four 8,000-meter peaks in a single calendar year. His 20-year-old son also climbed K2 in the summer of 2019. He was born in the village of Sadpara, on the outskirts of Skardu, in northern Pakistan. He began his career as a porter. His passion for mountaineering led him to accompany foreign expeditions. In 2015, his team attempted a winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, but was unsuccessful. They tried again in 2016 and reached the summit, marking the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. He has climbed Nanga Parbat four times. In January 2018, Ali Sadpara and Spanish mountaineer Alex Txikon, along with six Sherpas, attempted to climb Everest in winter without supplemental oxygen, but failed the following month at Camp 4 due to high winds. In June 2018, he was recruited by Marc Batard to participate in the "Beyond Mount Everest" program, a five-year undertaking. They planned to climb Nanga Parbat, K2, and Everest in 2019, 2021, and 2022, respectively. Among his prestigious mountaineering record, Muhammad Ali Sadpara successfully climbed 8 of the 14 peaks over eight thousand meters: Gasherbrum II in 2006 (Pakistan), Spantik in 2006 (Pakistan), Nanga Parbat in 2008 (Pakistan), Muztagh Ata in 2008 (China), Nanga Parbat in 2009 (Pakistan), Gasherbrum I in 2010 (Pakistan), Nanga Parbat in 2016 (Pakistan), first winter ascent of Broad Peak in 2017 (Pakistan), Nanga Parbat in 2017 (Pakistan), first autumn ascent of Pumori in 2017 (Nepal), first winter ascent of K2 in 2018 (Pakistan), Lhotse in 2019 (Nepal) linked with Makalu in 2019 (Nepal), from Manaslu in 2019 (Nepal). He disappeared on K2 with Chilean Juan Pablo Mohr and Icelander John Snorri on February 5, 2021. Pakistani authorities officially announced the abandonment of the search and the deaths of the three climbers on February 19, 2021. His son, Sajid Ali Sadpara, also a professional mountaineer and a national treasure, was 20 years old and the youngest climber to reach the summit of K2. On July 26, 2021, he found his father's body on K2, five months after the tragedy.

Known For

Sadpara The Mountaineer
10.0

The film is based on the expedition of mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara to K2 in Pakistan, which cost him his life in 2021 at the age of 45. The film opens with him passing the bottleneck with his companions, successfully climbing it, and then returning when he is caught in an avalanche or storm and ultimately loses his life. As his life fades from memory, the film shifts to flashbacks as he recalls the events of his life.

Sadpara The Mountaineer

2021
K2 - Triumph And Tragedy On The Savage Mountain
10.0

Chris Bonington and Jim Curran trace the history of K2 expeditions from 1903 to the disastrous loss of life in the summer of 1986, when 13 climbers died on K2, climbing tragedies that aggressively carved the epithet the 'savage mountain' into the public consciousness. Jim Curran was hired by the British 'Fuller’s K2' team to document their attempt on the unclimbed NW Ridge, so he was at the mountain, all summer. Inevitably, his documentary ended up drifting into a gripping narrative from the front line of the disastrous and tragic summer that killed 13 climbers on K2.

K2 - Triumph And Tragedy On The Savage Mountain

1988
Through the Unknown
7.9

"Verso L'Ignoto" (Towards the Unknown) is an Italian documentary that follows mountaineer Daniele Nardi and his team in their attempt to achieve the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, an 8,000-meter peak in Pakistan, nicknamed the "killer mountain" due to its exceptional danger. For three years, the camera follows the preparation and several successive expeditions, showing the extreme cold, avalanches, fatigue, and the setbacks that constantly force the climbers to choose between continuing their quest for the summit or preserving their lives. More than just a story of sporting achievement, the documentary highlights doubt, defeat, and human fragility, showing that the "unknown" is not only the mountain, but also the element of risk, desire, and need for self-transcendence that each of us carries within.

Through the Unknown

2016
The Last First: Winter K2
N/A

The race to conquer mountaineering's last great trophy, K2 in winter, has claimed several lives. It has brought to light deep divisions within contemporary mountaineering: the pressure of commercialization, the damaging effects of social media, and latent tensions between marginalized climbers and those who have always profited from the sport's glory. The documentary filmmaker tells a complex, poignant, and moving story that deciphers the extreme mountaineering industry and the evolution of its culture. The story focuses on a 2021 expedition: Icelandic climbers John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Pakistani father-and-son duo Muhammad Ali and Sajid Sadpara set out to conquer K2 in winter. They quickly find themselves sharing this perilous ascent with influencers and their film crews, clients of commercial expeditions, and Nims, a renowned Nepalese mountaineer, and his team of Sherpas.

The Last First: Winter K2

2026
The Naked Mountain
5.3

The first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat was achieved in 2016 by Pakistani Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Spaniard Alex Txikón, accompanied by Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger. Alex Txikón made headlines again by attempting K2 in the winter of 2019, then Everest in the winter of 2020 (each time unsuccessfully); but also by participating in the search operations led by Tom Ballard and Daniele Nardi on Nanga Parbat in March 2019, even claiming to have spotted two figures on the face. Confined during the Himalayan season, the Basque climber took the opportunity to work on a film recounting his own adventure on Nanga Parbat four years earlier.

The Naked Mountain

2020
Pumori, The Daughter Of The Mountain
10.0

In October 2001, five Basque mountaineers, Beñat Arrue (22), Iñaki Aiertza (27), Aritz Artieda (23), Javi Arkauz (22), and César Nieto (23)—lost their lives while climbing Mount Pumori (7,161 m) in Nepal. After the fatal avalanche, the five other members of the expedition alerted rescue services and organized an unsuccessful rescue attempt. A year later, Arantxa Gurrutxaga and Peio Arrue, Beñat Arrue's parents, returned to Nepal to pay their respects at the site of the tragedy and try to find the young Nepalese girl who appeared with their son in the last photograph of him before the accident. A growing bond developed between Suku Maya, the mountain girl, and Beñat Arrue's family, who would support and accompany him over the years. Catharsis, from tragedy to love, the death of the five young mountaineers allows Suku to have a new chance in life.

Pumori, The Daughter Of The Mountain

2019