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Jean Afanassieff

Jean Afanassieff

Directing

Biography

Jean Afanassieff, born February 17, 1953 born in Paris and died in the same city on January 10, 2015, is a French mountaineer and director of Russian origin, considered one of the best climbers of his generation. On October 15, 1978, he was one of the first French people to reach the summit of Everest, with Pierre Mazeaud and Nicolas Jaeger Accompanied by the Austrian Kurt Diemberger, altitude cameraman. Grandson of the Russian emigration of 1917, having fled Crimea, son of Igor Afanassieff engineer at Thomson, Jean Afanassieff was born on February 17, 1953 in Paris. He discovered climbing in Fontainebleau with his family before his parents enrolled him at the age of fourteen in the French Alpine Club. He made his first races two years later [ref. desired] then left at the age of eighteen for Chamonix where he made several first solo ascents. Became a high mountain guide at the age of twenty, a member of the Chamonix Guides Companion, he was the first to climb Mount Ross with Patrick Cordier in the Kerguelen Islands in 1975. The same year, he founded with Patrick Cordier, Gilles and Patrice Bodin, the independent association of Mont Blanc guides (AIGMB). On October 15, 1978, Jean Afanassieff, Nicolas Jaeger and Pierre Mazeaud are the first three French people to reach the summit of Everest. Jean Afanassieff and Nicolas Jaeger then made the first descent of Everest on skis, from an altitude of 8,300 meters. This ski descent (cable bindings) is done without oxygen. With the TF1 team which follows the expedition, he is interested in this other passion which was going to make him rock in his second life di him: the audiovisual one. The documentary film will become his job di him, he will realize nearly 80 for various television channels. Jean Afanassieff makes documentaries by first filming the expeditions in which he participates, including four expeditions to Everest, K2, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat, two to Fitz Roy in the Andes of Argentina and Chile. He then moved away from mountaineering, traveled with the schooner Antarctica around the Antarctic and devoted himself to his new job as a documentary filmmaker. He makes documentaries on various themes, especially in Russia where his family was originally from. Little by little Afanassieff will divert his camera from this mountain which has lost the scent of adventure of the pioneers to film other horizons. Off the marked paths, he will capture ever more captivating subjects. Afanassieff, the terrible child, once unable to line up two sentences in a conference, having not done serious studies, becomes a member of the society of men of letters. Him and Knight of the Legion of Honor. Since the 90s, it was difficult not to browse a TV program without coming across a report signed by Afanassieff. His last series di lui, in 2014, Les Alpes Vues Du Ciel, was a reflection of his talent di lui and his sense of aesthetics. Married, father of four children and grandfather twice, he shared his life between Paris and his chalet des Bois in Chamonix. Jean Afanassieff died of pancreatic cancer on January 10, 2015 in Paris at the age of 61 years.

Known For

Annapurna 88
10.0

An international expedition led by French mountaineer Benoit Chamoux reached the summit of Annapurna (8091 m) on Tuesday, May 10, 1988, via its south face, one of the most difficult routes in the Himalayas. The expedition, named "L'Esprit d'Equipe" (The Spirit of Team), financed by the computer company Bull (Chamoux thus secured one of the largest contracts in the history of mountaineering: twenty million francs to carry out his project), aimed to reach six peaks over 8,000 meters, as a full team, within three years: Annapurna, Everest, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga. The challenge results: in 1988: Annapurna (8091 m) - 5 out of 6 men reached the summit, 1988: failed on Everest, 200 m below the summit, 1989: Manaslu (8183 m) - 8 out of 8 men reached the summit in 4 teams of 2, 1990: Cho Oyu (8201 m) - 7 out of 7 men reached the summit, 1990: Shisha Pangma (8013 m) - 7 out of 7 men reached the summit.

Annapurna 88

1988Movie
Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief
10.0

A fascinating chronology of 100 years of mountain film history in the Alps. This documentary focuses primarily on films shot on the Matterhorn, the Eiger, and the Grandes Jorasses, considered until the 1930s as the "last problems of the Alps," and shows the evolution of mountain filmmaking through numerous excerpts from documentaries and feature films – notably on the Matterhorn in 1901. The genre, appropriated as a means of mass exaltation by "fascist" regimes during the Second World War, was reinvented in the 1950s by Gaston Rebuffat, Marcel Ichac, and Lionel Terray in the Mont Blanc massif, avant-garde figures of French mountain cinema, who reintroduced, beyond performance, the values ​​of the mountains – and in color – poetry, humor, and sharing among people from all walks of life.

Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief

2008Movie
Gary Hemming, le beatnik des cimes
10.0

The American mountaineer Gary Hemming marked the era of the 1960s. The story of this "exceptional" character is intimately linked to that of the rescue of the two German mountaineers on the west face of the Drus, in 1966, a rescue which he had took the initiative. While the official emergency services of the EHM try to reach them from above, a pirate rope made up of Gary Hemming, René Desmaison, Lothar Mauch, Gil Bodin, Mike Brurke, François Guillot, the filmmaker Gérard Bauer organizes to join them from below and succeeded after a fierce struggle the rescue. The press seizes the event and elevates Gary Hemming to the rank of national hero. All the newspapers feature this big guy with a cool attitude, mismatched clothes, jovial smile and long blond hair on the front page. From then on, he was nicknamed: "the beatnik of the peaks".

Gary Hemming, le beatnik des cimes

1996Movie
Everest At Any Cost
10.0

In 1983, three climbers became the first French people to reach the summit of Everest. Among them were expedition leader Pierre Mazeaud and a promising 25-year-old climber, Jean Afanassieff. Twenty years later, the two legends, accompanied by mountain guide Michel Pellé, retrace the steps of their exploit and make the trek from Kathmandu to the foot of the roof of the world. This is an opportunity to retrace the history of the successive assaults on Everest and to assess the current situation of a mountain that has become a victim of its own success: while Sherpas have been able to take advantage of Western enthusiasm and thus enrich themselves and equip the summit to make it more accessible, the site's attendance poses numerous problems, both human and ecological.

Everest At Any Cost

1999Movie
Guido Magnone - The Artist
10.0

Guido Magnone designs cardboard boxes by hand for his parents' small business. A painter friend loves his brushwork and pushes him to attend the Beaux Arts. He takes an external competition, wins it, befriends the sculptors César and Féraud, surrealists, a handful of bohemians. He then discovered the mountain and quickly became one of the best climbers of his generation. He made prestigious conquests such as the west face of the Drus in the Alps, the first ascents of Fitz Roy in Patagonia with Lionel Terray or Makalu in the Himalayas... Magnone also participated in the creation of the UCPA and will be president of the Groupe de Haute Montagne from 1961 to 1965. From 1977, Guido returned to his first passion: sculpture, to devote himself fully to it around 1990. He began to exhibit again in 1996. In 2002, he exhibited his sculptures in Paris , Bourg-la-Reine, Aosta then in Etroubles in 2009.

Guido Magnone - The Artist

1997Movie
The World According to Gazprom
10.0

Gazprom, an industrial and financial conglomerate created in 1992, is the key weapon in the Kremlin's geopolitical strategy. First producer of natural gas, Russia indeed holds a third of the world's total reserves. Responsible for producing, distributing and selling it, Gazprom is a company like no other, where gas market professionals work, but also ministers, deputies and advisers close to the Russian president. It was during the winter of 2005-2006 that Europe, which buys 30% of its gas from Russia, suddenly became aware of its vulnerability. Comment ? Overnight, Russia had just cut gas supplies to the pro-Western Ukraine of Viktor Lushchenko, who refused to pay tariffs multiplied by five. Since then, the continuous rise in oil prices, coupled with ever-increasing Chinese demand, has confirmed the key role that its hydrocarbons give to Russia.

The World According to Gazprom

2008Movie