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Jean Afanassieff

Jean Afanassieff

Directing

Biography

Jean Afanassieff, born February 17, 1953 born in Paris and died in the same city on January 10, 2015, is a French mountaineer and director of Russian origin, considered one of the best climbers of his generation. On October 15, 1978, he was one of the first French people to reach the summit of Everest, with Pierre Mazeaud and Nicolas Jaeger Accompanied by the Austrian Kurt Diemberger, altitude cameraman. Grandson of the Russian emigration of 1917, having fled Crimea, son of Igor Afanassieff engineer at Thomson, Jean Afanassieff was born on February 17, 1953 in Paris. He discovered climbing in Fontainebleau with his family before his parents enrolled him at the age of fourteen in the French Alpine Club. He made his first races two years later [ref. desired] then left at the age of eighteen for Chamonix where he made several first solo ascents. Became a high mountain guide at the age of twenty, a member of the Chamonix Guides Companion, he was the first to climb Mount Ross with Patrick Cordier in the Kerguelen Islands in 1975. The same year, he founded with Patrick Cordier, Gilles and Patrice Bodin, the independent association of Mont Blanc guides (AIGMB). On October 15, 1978, Jean Afanassieff, Nicolas Jaeger and Pierre Mazeaud are the first three French people to reach the summit of Everest. Jean Afanassieff and Nicolas Jaeger then made the first descent of Everest on skis, from an altitude of 8,300 meters. This ski descent (cable bindings) is done without oxygen. With the TF1 team which follows the expedition, he is interested in this other passion which was going to make him rock in his second life di him: the audiovisual one. The documentary film will become his job di him, he will realize nearly 80 for various television channels. Jean Afanassieff makes documentaries by first filming the expeditions in which he participates, including four expeditions to Everest, K2, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat, two to Fitz Roy in the Andes of Argentina and Chile. He then moved away from mountaineering, traveled with the schooner Antarctica around the Antarctic and devoted himself to his new job as a documentary filmmaker. He makes documentaries on various themes, especially in Russia where his family was originally from. Little by little Afanassieff will divert his camera from this mountain which has lost the scent of adventure of the pioneers to film other horizons. Off the marked paths, he will capture ever more captivating subjects. Afanassieff, the terrible child, once unable to line up two sentences in a conference, having not done serious studies, becomes a member of the society of men of letters. Him and Knight of the Legion of Honor. Since the 90s, it was difficult not to browse a TV program without coming across a report signed by Afanassieff. His last series di lui, in 2014, Les Alpes Vues Du Ciel, was a reflection of his talent di lui and his sense of aesthetics. Married, father of four children and grandfather twice, he shared his life between Paris and his chalet des Bois in Chamonix. Jean Afanassieff died of pancreatic cancer on January 10, 2015 in Paris at the age of 61 years.

Known For

The Climbers
10.0

"The Climbers" is a six-part documentary series tracing the history of mountaineering. Directed by Chris Bonington and Richard Else, it was produced by the BBC and broadcast in 1992. The series recounts the evolution of mountaineering and the traditions of climbers in Great Britain and on the European continent: the former developed a free climbing technique, while the latter used aids such as keys, pitons, and drills to ascend otherwise inaccessible routes. The program includes archive footage of the pioneers of the sport, from the emergence of free climbing as a distinct discipline in the late 1970s and 1980s to the advent of competitions.

The Climbers

1992
Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief
10.0

A fascinating chronology of 100 years of mountain film history in the Alps. This documentary focuses primarily on films shot on the Matterhorn, the Eiger, and the Grandes Jorasses, considered until the 1930s as the "last problems of the Alps," and shows the evolution of mountain filmmaking through numerous excerpts from documentaries and feature films – notably on the Matterhorn in 1901. The genre, appropriated as a means of mass exaltation by "fascist" regimes during the Second World War, was reinvented in the 1950s by Gaston Rebuffat, Marcel Ichac, and Lionel Terray in the Mont Blanc massif, avant-garde figures of French mountain cinema, who reintroduced, beyond performance, the values ​​of the mountains – and in color – poetry, humor, and sharing among people from all walks of life.

Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief

2008
When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema
10.0

Many mountaineers as part of their activity have used cameras and films to allow us to participate through images in their adventures and their emotions. Many of them have become true film professionals: Joseph Vallot, Lionel Terray, Marcel Ichac, Renè Vernadet, Jean Afanasieff, Pierre Royer, Denis Ducroz, Kurt Diemberg and many others are among the conquerors of the image of the mountain. The film depicts the passion of these men on the highest mountains in the world... behind the lens.

When the Mountaineers Make Their Cinema

2000
Paragot-Bérardini, La Cordée des Voyous
10.0

Paragot and Bérardini: two climbers who fill all climbing enthusiasts with admiration. In Fontainebleau, Saussois, the Alps, the Andes, the Himalayas, and all over the world, they have left their names attached to the most difficult routes and the most prestigious peaks. Here, they recount only the climbs they completed together: famous expeditions to Aconcagua and Huascarán, firsts in the Alps and the Dolomites. An unwavering friendship, comical and tragic adventures—this is what they share with us in the warm atmosphere of their memories. "La Cordée des Voyous" will be included in Jean Afanassieff's film "La Grande Cordée," which deals with post-war proletarian mountaineering.

Paragot-Bérardini, La Cordée des Voyous

1997
Au Nord De L'Hiver
10.0

A cold odyssey over more than 8,000 km through contrasting territories, from the mountains of Mongolia to Lake Baikal, from the taiga to the Siberian tondra: this is the challenge that Nicolas Vanier has set himself. The adventure will last 18 months, 18 months during which Nicolas and his team face one of the most hostile regions of the globe before reaching the Arctic ice. An exceptional route, where only traditional modes of transport are used to overcome the constraints, each time different, of the regions crossed...

Au Nord De L'Hiver

1993
Death of a Guide
8.3

Veteran Chamonix mountain guide Michel Servoz and the young aspiring guide Patrick Falavier attempt to climb the west face of the Dru in the Mont-Blanc massif. When they are gone for five days, the captain of the gendarmerie in Morteau is worried, but he cannot undertake research for a rescue without the permission of the family.

Death of a Guide

1975
Gary Hemming, le beatnik des cimes
10.0

The American mountaineer Gary Hemming marked the era of the 1960s. The story of this "exceptional" character is intimately linked to that of the rescue of the two German mountaineers on the west face of the Drus, in 1966, a rescue which he had took the initiative. While the official emergency services of the EHM try to reach them from above, a pirate rope made up of Gary Hemming, René Desmaison, Lothar Mauch, Gil Bodin, Mike Brurke, François Guillot, the filmmaker Gérard Bauer organizes to join them from below and succeeded after a fierce struggle the rescue. The press seizes the event and elevates Gary Hemming to the rank of national hero. All the newspapers feature this big guy with a cool attitude, mismatched clothes, jovial smile and long blond hair on the front page. From then on, he was nicknamed: "the beatnik of the peaks".

Gary Hemming, le beatnik des cimes

1996
Eric Escoffier, la Fureur de Vivre
10.0

No description available.

Eric Escoffier, la Fureur de Vivre

2019
Tank on the Moon
7.0

The incredible story of two small robots sent by the Soviets to the moon. Designed in secrecy by Soviet laboratories in the 1960's, this is one of the greatest technological achievements in the history of the USSR. With former USSR space archives, along with recollections by several of the key participants in the Lunokhod program, the true story of the Russian lunar robots, can finally be told!

Tank on the Moon

2007
The Death Zone
10.0

To understand the difficulties of an ascent to over eight thousand metres, it is enough to remember the almost 300 victims these peaks have claimed. The Swiss alpinist Ehrart Loretan, the third alpinist in the world to have climbed all 14 8,000, and the Austrian alpinist Kurt Diemgerger cover the whole history of the conquest of the world’s 8,000, from the fifties to the present day, together with other alpinists and film directors who have climbed them. They talk about their experienced when they ventured into the death zone.

The Death Zone

1996
La Grande Cordée
10.0

No description available.

La Grande Cordée

1997
Everest At Any Cost
10.0

In 1983, three climbers became the first French people to reach the summit of Everest. Among them were expedition leader Pierre Mazeaud and a promising 25-year-old climber, Jean Afanassieff. Twenty years later, the two legends, accompanied by mountain guide Michel Pellé, retrace the steps of their exploit and make the trek from Kathmandu to the foot of the roof of the world. This is an opportunity to retrace the history of the successive assaults on Everest and to assess the current situation of a mountain that has become a victim of its own success: while Sherpas have been able to take advantage of Western enthusiasm and thus enrich themselves and equip the summit to make it more accessible, the site's attendance poses numerous problems, both human and ecological.

Everest At Any Cost

1999
Mammoth Hunter
10.0

Since the ban on elephant hunting, Russia has had a monopoly on the ivory trade. But this ivory comes from mammoths, whose tusks, skeletons and sometimes frozen bodies are regularly found in the frozen ground of Siberia. According to estimates by some scientists, it could contain the remains of several million mammoths! eternal ice. Their goal: to discover the frozen remains of mammoths trapped in the permafrost. Using derisory means, they dig the frozen ground from which they extract bones, teeth, skulls... and above all, precious mammoth tusks. Ivory - the white gold of the tundra - will sell for over $50 a kilo. A total market appears at $2.5 million, with hubs in Moscow and Hong Kong.

Mammoth Hunter

2005
Everest 78, or the French on top of the world
10.0

It was a sporting feat, a national feat, but also and above all a technical feat: on October 15, 1978, three French mountaineers, for the first time, reached the summit of Everest: Pierre Mazeaud, Nicolas Jaeger, Jean Afanassieff, accompanied by Kurt Diemberger, Austrian mountaineer and cameraman. A performance broadcast live on the radio thanks to the France inter teams and filmed for television by TF1. Christian Brincourt, a great French reporter, tells us about this expedition and questions the members of the expedition on their motivations. With Pierre Mazeaud (expedition leader), Jean-François Mazeaud (doctor), Claude Deck, Raymond Despiau, Nicolas Jaeger, Walter Cecchinel, Jean Afanassieff, Kurt Diemberger.

Everest 78, or the French on top of the world

1978
Le Grec - Georges Livanos
10.0

Georges Livanos, nicknamed the Greek but pure child of Marseille, amateur mountaineer, opened more than 500 routes in the Calanques, 40 in the Dolomites, and repeated many of the greatest routes in the Alps in the company of the best climbers of his time, d friends, and especially his wife Sonia. He is also the author of the classic "Beyond the vertical". This report follows for a day the legend, still 71 years old, of his apartment in the Marseille city in the Calanques. As a true Provençal, he speaks without filter of the exploits that made him famous, gives his opinion on modern climbing and on life in general: the portrait of a great climber and above all of a fascinating character with a sense of humor sharp.

Le Grec - Georges Livanos

1994
Faces Nord
10.0

March 12, 1987. The young French mountaineer Eric Escoffier prepares his equipment, very reduced in material and food. He leaves the next day and intends to chain three north faces in the Alps: Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses. The ascent of the first summit, the Eiger is slow, difficult and full of pitfalls. It takes 17 hours to reach it. Without recognizing the terrain -he prefers to improvise- the mountaineer continues through the Matterhorn. When night falls, anxiety is felt on Zermatt's side. Help is organized to pick him up. Despite his refusal to return, Escoffier is finally hoisted. Christophe Profit, a few hours earlier, managed the chain of three summits.

Faces Nord

1987
The World According to Gazprom
10.0

Gazprom, an industrial and financial conglomerate created in 1992, is the key weapon in the Kremlin's geopolitical strategy. First producer of natural gas, Russia indeed holds a third of the world's total reserves. Responsible for producing, distributing and selling it, Gazprom is a company like no other, where gas market professionals work, but also ministers, deputies and advisers close to the Russian president. It was during the winter of 2005-2006 that Europe, which buys 30% of its gas from Russia, suddenly became aware of its vulnerability. Comment ? Overnight, Russia had just cut gas supplies to the pro-Western Ukraine of Viktor Lushchenko, who refused to pay tariffs multiplied by five. Since then, the continuous rise in oil prices, coupled with ever-increasing Chinese demand, has confirmed the key role that its hydrocarbons give to Russia.

The World According to Gazprom

2008
Guido Magnone - The Artist
10.0

Guido Magnone designs cardboard boxes by hand for his parents' small business. A painter friend loves his brushwork and pushes him to attend the Beaux Arts. He takes an external competition, wins it, befriends the sculptors César and Féraud, surrealists, a handful of bohemians. He then discovered the mountain and quickly became one of the best climbers of his generation. He made prestigious conquests such as the west face of the Drus in the Alps, the first ascents of Fitz Roy in Patagonia with Lionel Terray or Makalu in the Himalayas... Magnone also participated in the creation of the UCPA and will be president of the Groupe de Haute Montagne from 1961 to 1965. From 1977, Guido returned to his first passion: sculpture, to devote himself fully to it around 1990. He began to exhibit again in 1996. In 2002, he exhibited his sculptures in Paris , Bourg-la-Reine, Aosta then in Etroubles in 2009.

Guido Magnone - The Artist

1997
Annapurna 88
10.0

An international expedition led by French mountaineer Benoit Chamoux reached the summit of Annapurna (8091 m) on Tuesday, May 10, 1988, via its south face, one of the most difficult routes in the Himalayas. The expedition, named "L'Esprit d'Equipe" (The Spirit of Team), financed by the computer company Bull (Chamoux thus secured one of the largest contracts in the history of mountaineering: twenty million francs to carry out his project), aimed to reach six peaks over 8,000 meters, as a full team, within three years: Annapurna, Everest, Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga. The challenge results: in 1988: Annapurna (8091 m) - 5 out of 6 men reached the summit, 1988: failed on Everest, 200 m below the summit, 1989: Manaslu (8183 m) - 8 out of 8 men reached the summit in 4 teams of 2, 1990: Cho Oyu (8201 m) - 7 out of 7 men reached the summit, 1990: Shisha Pangma (8013 m) - 7 out of 7 men reached the summit.

Annapurna 88

1988