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Jerry Moffatt

Jerry Moffatt

Acting

Biography

Jerry Moffatt, born in 1963, is a top-level English climber who was one of the leading figures in climbing in the 1980s. At the age of 18, he climbed Little Plum in Derbyshire, then considered the most difficult route in the country. In the early 1980s he competed with Ron Fawcett for the title of best English climber. Jerry Moffatt is Ben Moon's inseparable climbing partner. Together, they shattered the standards of their time. For Jerry, these are remarkable on-sight climbs: “Chimpanzodrome”, 7c+ at Saussois and “Phoenix”, 7c+ at Yosemite, in 1984 for example. After several years on the front of the stage, he had to take a two-year break to treat an elbow injury, due to overtraining and requiring surgery. Then he returned to the scene by participating in climbing competitions, culminating in a victory at the world championships in Leeds in 1989. Jerry Moffatt is also very high level after work, at the top of his time. : “The Face” (first production), 8a+ at Frankenjura in 1983, “Bidule” at Saussois in 1984 and barely a few tries, “Liquid Amber” (first production), 8c (today 8c+) in 1990 at Pen Trwyn , “Evolution” (first achievement), 8c+ in 1995 at Raven Tor... Jerry Moffatt is also solos up to big 8a, bouldering up to 8b (“Dominator”, Yosemite in 1991) and hyper exposed routes on jammers (or absence of jammers for that matter...) up to at 8b+ (“Renegade master”, at Froggatt in 1995).

Known For

Statement of Youth
10.0

At the start of the 80’s sport climbing was in its embryonic stages. Bolted routes were beginning to make a regular appearance, indoor climbing walls as we know them nowadays had not yet been invented and there was no such thing as being a pro athlete. During that period standards rose exponentially, from 7b+ as the cutting edge to 9a becoming the new world standard at the end of the ’80’s. In such a short period the sport changed beyond recognition and, in Britain, was fuelled by a small group of climbers who would do anything to climb full-time: sleeping in sheds underneath crags, shoplifting for food and clothes, and living off unemployment benefits. As illustrated in this film directed by Nick Brown, these climbers were living outside the rest of society and went on to become the most influential figures in the history of British sport climbing.

Statement of Youth

2019Movie
Verdon-Saussois 1983
10.0

In 1983, the French Mountain Federation (FFM) organized a landmark climbing gathering in Saussois and the Verdon, bringing together generations of the greatest climbers of the time, including Patrick Edlinger, Jean-Claude Droyer, Jerry Moffatt, Jean-Claude Droyer, Robert Paragot, Lucien Bérardini, Ron Fawcett, Jean-Pierre Bouvier, and other major figures. This event symbolized the emergence of modern sport climbing as a practice in its own right in France, with the liberation of legendary routes and the rise of freestyle climbing, notably under the leadership of Droyer and Edlinger. This gathering was a key moment in the dissemination of the freestyle ethic and the evolution of grading, while Saussois and the Verdon were at the forefront of high difficulty in the world.

Verdon-Saussois 1983

1983Movie