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Kurt Diemberger

Kurt Diemberger

Acting

Biography

Kurt Diemberger, born March 16, 1932 in Villach (Carinthia), is an Austrian mountaineer, photographer, film director and writer. He is one of only two mountaineers, with Hermann Buhl, to have made a first ascent on two peaks over eight thousand meters. In 1978, he accompanied the first French expedition that succeeded in climbing Everest in the company of the French Jean Afanassieff, Pierre Mazeaud and Nicolas Jaeger. In 1957, Kurt Diemberger participated in the first ascent of Broad Peak (8,047 meters), in an Austro-German team led by Marcus Schmuck and including Hermann Buhl. The same year, still with Hermann Buhl, he attempted the ascent of Chogolisa (7,665 meters). They could not reach the summit, stopped by the storm at 7,300 meters above sea level. Kurt Diemberger was the last person to see his teammate, who fell to his death on the descent when a cornice gave way beneath him at 7,200 metres. In 1960, Kurt Diemberger made the first ascent of Dhaulagiri as part of a Swiss expedition of which he was the only Austrian member. 26 years later, during the expedition of seven Austrian and British climbers led by Alan Rouse on K2, he was one of only two survivors of the expedition, during the snowstorm that wiped out the group on 10 August 1986, six days after reaching the summit of the mountain. Kurt Diemberger then continued to be active in the world of mountaineering, for example preparing various high-altitude expeditions from the Chinese province of Xinjiang and working on film projects on the mountain, together with his daughter. In 2013, Kurt Diemberger received the Piolet d’or career, Walter Bonatti Prize.

Known For

Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief
10.0

A fascinating chronology of 100 years of mountain film history in the Alps. This documentary focuses primarily on films shot on the Matterhorn, the Eiger, and the Grandes Jorasses, considered until the 1930s as the "last problems of the Alps," and shows the evolution of mountain filmmaking through numerous excerpts from documentaries and feature films – notably on the Matterhorn in 1901. The genre, appropriated as a means of mass exaltation by "fascist" regimes during the Second World War, was reinvented in the 1950s by Gaston Rebuffat, Marcel Ichac, and Lionel Terray in the Mont Blanc massif, avant-garde figures of French mountain cinema, who reintroduced, beyond performance, the values ​​of the mountains – and in color – poetry, humor, and sharing among people from all walks of life.

Faszination Bergfilm - Himmelhoch und Abgrundtief

2008Movie